She was white hot

Carlos says fuck the waves. We’re standing up today. We are already sponsored surfers with mad money and skills. We can carve waves like the curl of an ice cream scoop, our skin chocolate brown or more like toffee or more like vanilla with red sprinkles.

In the middle of the night a thunderstorm arrived. She was fierce with white strikes lashing electricity. I can’t wait to see what she kicked up from the water. If the sea purged parts of itself on the beach – an injured jelly, someone’s hand or keys, oil slicks like the rank fluid from her undercurrents, the pit of her stomach. Nature knows what to do with itself when we fuck it up. She was white hot angry and lashing down.

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4 Responses to She was white hot

  1. rachvb says:

    =)
    I stood up today on my second day of surfing. And then the sea kicked the shit out of me a few times across the bottom to let me know she’s still in control. Two dolphins became quick celebrities from the shore. I’m glad they graced us with their presence.

  2. Congrats. It’s incredible. The surfers call that the washing machine. The crash inside and the spin. Or sometimes the toilet. Get up again get up again get up again.
    xo

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